Thursday, October 23, 2008

Wine Making

I went up the hill to see how my neighrbor is making wine. I am clueless on the process she uses. She is sitting and sorting the grapes. Some of the grapes will be used for wine and some will make Raki. Raki is a pure alchohol. It is clear, like vodka. A common product in Albania. The first time I had a little, I wasn't feeling so good the next day! Now, occasionally, just a little.....
In the front, is the blue machine. It has a crank that will press the grapes in the first process. It will then be placed in large jars. After a week or so, there will be grape juice. But beware. I was given some juice and wasn't careful. It exploded ALL over my kitchen. I guess it was fermenting. I sent time getting rid of my 'red' kitchen.....
Note that there is also a pile of discards that will return to the yard. Always recycling and reusing.
Here is a picture of my co-worker in front of the jar about to become wine. On the ground you can also see corn that is being dried to become cornmeal. This is be bread during the winter.
I am sitting with Tomi. So much work, and she does not drink wine.
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Saturday, October 18, 2008

Fall in Fushe-Arrez

During the last weeks we celebrated Bajrmit - the end of Ramadan. They celebrate for 3 days, but offices, schools and businesses were closed the first day of the celebration. It was the first time that I realized which shops are owned by Muslims and which are Catholic. I went over to Puke which has a mosque and even more places were closed for the celebration.

And this is a long weekend in Albania. Monday is Mother Teresa Day. Her feast on the Church calendar is in early September when she died. The Albanians are celebrating when she was beatified. I am sure that she is also the only Nobel Laureate. And I find it even more interesting that they are honoring a woman. The culture is very male dominated. Yesterday I went over to the school library where a number of children - mostly girls - gave presentations on Mother Teresa. They had written poems, and gave dramatizations about her life. They also quoted from here words. VERY NICE

All of this religious celebration in the only country that was declared atheist!

Monday, June 23, 2008

How Many events can happen in a week?

Hello to All,

Hope your summer is relaxing. Mine is ‘different’. I think nothing is really happening – then realize that all is really happening. I just forget that change is now such a part of my life. I have been in Fushe-Arrez for a week. I have not spoken to a native English speaker. Oh, my. For a talker….well, I will learn.

Some thoughts on the crazy last week.

Still looking for another place…..originally nothing to cook with, stove for heating to come in fall…..broken fridge is in another room…..water continually runs(when on)…Now have stove….My counterpart is looking for another place for me.

But then, let me give the American perspective.

Water: 5-7 am, 12-2 pm, 7-9 pm - Hot is turned on and I can feel it – but doesn’t come out. There is a shower head – but only a drain by the toilet???? Learned to wash my hair with a liter of cold water! Over the kitchen sink or the bathroom drain. In a room with too much body odor, remembered Mam’s statement of always being clean, with a small bowl of water. I have soaked dusty feet and cleaned with the small bowl. Last night enjoyed the cold water after a 95 – aka 35 – degree day. Enjoy your shower and tub… and constant water!!!

Women have LOTS of questions. You are alone and here in another country. Women grab teens who are learning English. The Albanians ask questions we would never consider…age, how much money do you make??? Forget the fact that I have left children behind…..and am not married.

People are incredible. The shop owner wanted me to have a soft drink with her. The woman at the bread shop gave me the pita type bread! When I went to buy an chocolate ice cream. YO! Women I have met have given me so many items and are more than willing to help with anything. But still have their place. Oh, PC has a role for me….Is Fushe-Arrez ready? For a woman who left family to come to their village. How do your children feel??

Lots of time to walk. Not what is done in Albania. WHY? I have yet to find many places that are not uphill. But what do find on my walks. There are a number of people in traditional clothes. I have not taken any pictures, trying to honor them. I think now that some will be more open. One was walking down my street with a couple piglets. Today she was walking with her cow. Yesterday, I thought someone had a small dog. Oh, how wrongly American. It was a new piglet and she had a slick to show it where to go>>> , the pigs outside my window are so
clean. Forget the old concepts. And they are taught to be picky eaters…..animals after myself.

Went to the council meeting – 10:00 am. There are 13 members on the council from 12 partie all men >> You can’t even imagine the loud voices. First was the strategic plan which is part of my being in Fushe-Arrez. That was relatively pleasant. Then giving aid to the families in need- unemployed (about 25%) I could pretty much understand this argument…. the yelling. Then another subject, that I couldn’t quite figure…language!?!More Yelling?!? The mayor, after much time said, would you like to leave(not in English, but can understand….YES.) I went into my office across the hall and said to the women ….”need grua….all borre”. They laughed. Quickly I said the PC is non-political. They continued to laugh and know that I meant no harm.

Bank> If they want to join tourism. LOTS to know. Couldn’t use ATM since last Thursday and even with account numbers cannot get money. I have had to borrow from counterpart. Tomorrow, I am off to a larger village. REMEMBER they have only had ATM’s for 2 years, they have only tried democracy for 18 years.

Last, went to mass Sunday afternoon. Church simply lovely in the setting. Oh, the choir would sound FABULOUS. What acoustics! So amazing. Sounded like all voices were present. Not knowing the language…I only knew the responses……. I finally appreciated Latin…I will send pictures later did not want to interrupt. MY thoughts…too traditional – 10 male servers entered with the priest. Four different types of servers…acolytes, I could figure. The readers were two teenage girls and one of the servers who spoke frequently. TRADITION…… I looked around and saw many women in traditional clothing. WHO AM I TO SAY????? Held hands or raised hands at the Our Father. Kiss of Peace….all exchanged greetings and even with the crazy foreigner. (servers in some order went to the priest and gave the traditional double kiss on each cheek) Then the boys greeted those nearby. All who went to communion received on their tongue. Since that last happened when I was a teen and realizing the Peace Corps desire to look at the culture – YO – I went to the priest and took the host in my hand. After mass people were talking, kissing the two statues. The German sister was SO upset. She had to walk outside to talk to me and was apologizing to the wrong person…..Sounded like Victory…..To me a celebration of community. On the way home “talked” to neighbors.

Hope this wasn’t too long. Impressions just keep growing.

LOVE TO ALL
miss you
Margaret

Saturday, June 14, 2008

Tuesday, June 10, 2008

Tuesday, May 6, 2008

Flat-lander in the Mountains

Since I arrived in Albania, I have seen a background of mountains. In my village there are nearby hills – and yes, some of my PCV’s live up hills. And looking out everywhere on all sides are mountains. And some of them are still covered with snow!!!

We drive a number of times a week into Elbasan. The winding road takes us through the hills. Mountains again are on either side.

I went on a visit to another PCV. The town Kucove was built on the side of a mountain. All walking was up and down. We saw some e lovely parks, the school, the bashkia (municipal building) and the youth center. In the hills of Kucove, I saw in use a mosque, orthodox and catholic church. OLV members would appreciate that the pastor is from Italy. We also stopped by a church from 1200’s, St. Nicholas was closed for the day. But I think the 4 of us might have filled the space. The surrounding cemetery had tombstones on the hill that were destroyed –many from the 20th century when communists declared the country atheistic. From this spot, we could also see the military base with old planes and an airstrip.


The next day we went to Barat. It has the beautiful pictures of hundreds of houses on the side of the hill. Again, as we walked up and down, I realized that I am a flat-lander. We went up to the castle and heard the lovely legend of the mountains on either side of the city. The legend is best told from the vantage point of the castle. Of course, it was a rainy day – better, I was told on a clear day when the details of the mountains are available. I can't believe that I walked up to the castle that has been a fortress for thousands of years.

Again, last weekend I walked up to a mountain outside of Belesh. Walking up, I am grateful for the ability to climb. Also wish that I didn't have the fear of heights - the fears are but much better than when I was young. Coming down has been the challenge. Both times, I have fallen. Balance on left foot leads to a slow and graceful fall. I will blame the rocky paths.
To their credit, Peace Corps did ask if you can walk three miles on rocky roads. They mean it.

Missing all of you and the flat lands.

Margaret

Friday, April 25, 2008

Four Weeks in Albania

Can it be....

Hello to all,

I am sorry for the delay in my writing. Reasons and excuses – but during the course of my writing you will be aware. Random internet connection….culture classes, language classes, knowledge of work environment, more classes and papers, plus projects…… On “Hub Days” we go from our villages into Elbasan. Much More on those adventures around Albania.
Know that I think of you often and want to share the many experiences which are becoming normal – well, sometimes.
The Peace Corps of 2008 is not your PC of old. While, letters really are still the best. Today, I am given a cell phone for instant communication with the office for Safety and Security – words we hear often. Most of you know that this is pushing me over into an unknown (no… refused to join) world. My phone was the last of the group to work – too ironic. The best part is that my first call was to Nate a few days late to talk about his third birthday…Now that is Important. And I was so glad to listen to him and have the phone. The volunteers are all still figuring out how to call family and friends.
Internet is my other communication tool. I have limited access. But not complaining. No other training sight has it. On available days, I can contact and be connected to the rest of the world.
Some thoughts on the last four weeks: (And hopefully this will answer some questions posed to me.)
1) I came through the clouds 4 weeks ago to find a very green country. The latitude is the same as Ohio so I didn’t expect that spring had begun. The woman behind me in the plane was returning for a visit and speaking English to the passenger at her side. She exclaimed, “That is my green!” For the Irish in me having just celebrated Paddy’s day, I was taken aback.
During the last month in Albania, I have watched the olive trees come to life. Trees that have bud and blossomed. Roses and Callalillies are bursting forth. With the spring rain, the land looks greener and greener – her green.

2) I live in central Albania which is beautiful. Now for some results of communism and the years that have followed. In the last month, I have had my impressions further understood with classes. For now my impressions. I live in a communist era building – concrete walls so thick… This building have been upgraded. I think each person owns – so mine is on the plush-side. The lady I live with is a widow who owns a gas station up the hill from the village. Most of the volunteers stay with more affluent members of the community. That is because they meet the PC standards..
People in Albania are constructing everywhere - they put their lek into personal businesses and homes. They do not trust banks or any markets, after the collapse in 1997. Businesses are often on the first floor – and then they build up. Their family and then other families are on each floor – or a Peace Corps Volunteer! Yards are really small farms. Chickens, vineyards, vegetables and plants. Larger ones include sheep, a cow and donkey. Construction companies are everywhere!... Though, I am not sure of their construction abilities!! The houses are imitations of those they have seen in Italy and Greece. Almost every family has members who live in those countries.
The downside is trash. It is everywhere. From their background, they think that the government should do this. (of course, we pay for that locally) So trash is everywhere. It really distracts from the beauty. The lake in the center of this village has restaurants dumping trash and water from whatever sources flowing into it. Could be beautiful! But who would eat the fish caught there. And I worry about the children who jumped in on their way home from school. I try to remember that it was Lady Bird Johnson who alerted us to our destruction of the earth. For me, not so long ago. April 1970 (Mam’s 73rd Birthday!) Earth Day began. Quicker than you think, life does/can change,. We began that change. The Albanians want to be like us. That would be a good example. And we are seeing cities and mayors trying. While most volunteers in Albania want to help with this. Our priorities have to be their priories.

3) Religion: I stated that 70% are Muslim, 20 %Orthodox and 10% Catholics. Not the complete story. Those stats are from some unknown source. We arrived Easter weekend. No one on staff knew what we were talking about when we asked about churches. The Importance was unknown to them. I will speak from my personal experience. My “host mom” (later on that story, since she is a widow younger than I), Says that she is Muslin. TRADITION!! She has served pork. And I have never seen any experience of muslin life. In the village, there is a newer mosque that my Peace Corps Trainers have seen no one attend. Occasionally there is a call to prayer. We note. I have seen a few women I am fearful to say their ages, because all look at least 10 years older – they may be my age….in black clothes with a white scarf.
More personally, when talking to my language teachers and others on the training staff, the stories are interesting. Orriela is engaged/married (later story) to a Catholic – or maybe an orthodox – and she is muslim. “No matter, I don’t care what religion my children are”. Another teacher, Irvin, during college converted from Muslim to Catholic or Orthodox (intermixed). Last week I did see 3 women in burka – the first in a month.
What I do know is that in the north the country is Catholic, from the Italians. In the south it is more orthodox, from the Greeks.


I hope to share more in the coming days. Very interesting country

Margaret

Thursday, March 13, 2008

Almost Ready to go!

Hello to All

Bags are packed, well nearly, ready to go...leaving on the jet plane Sunday. Then to Albania.

I am so excited to begin this adventure. It sounded like such a great plan 2 years ago. The last few weeks I have come to realize that the regularity of life is about to change. Many emotions and many goodbyes have flooded me. Special thanks to all who listened during the long medical clearance. Now the day is nearly here. Of course, I know that I will miss you all. But I think this is the best plan. I keep singing one of the songs our choir has been singing this year - GO MAKE A DIFFERENCE. In my head, I keep hearing the full choir and we are clapping together!

I say all of this because I have been so supported. What a wonderful party Thomas, Margaret and in abstencia Mary and David gave. On Sunday the choir gave me a beautiful reception. I was overwhelmed with so many OLV people coming to support and gift me. WOW!!
And to receive a special blessing makes me realize that during my coming challenges, I have that support. I am taking the gifts and cards for those moments when I want to feel close to Central Ohio.

The next time I write will be from Albania. Ready for some incredible life changes and I hope to share some of this with you.

Margaret