Friday, April 25, 2008

Four Weeks in Albania

Can it be....

Hello to all,

I am sorry for the delay in my writing. Reasons and excuses – but during the course of my writing you will be aware. Random internet connection….culture classes, language classes, knowledge of work environment, more classes and papers, plus projects…… On “Hub Days” we go from our villages into Elbasan. Much More on those adventures around Albania.
Know that I think of you often and want to share the many experiences which are becoming normal – well, sometimes.
The Peace Corps of 2008 is not your PC of old. While, letters really are still the best. Today, I am given a cell phone for instant communication with the office for Safety and Security – words we hear often. Most of you know that this is pushing me over into an unknown (no… refused to join) world. My phone was the last of the group to work – too ironic. The best part is that my first call was to Nate a few days late to talk about his third birthday…Now that is Important. And I was so glad to listen to him and have the phone. The volunteers are all still figuring out how to call family and friends.
Internet is my other communication tool. I have limited access. But not complaining. No other training sight has it. On available days, I can contact and be connected to the rest of the world.
Some thoughts on the last four weeks: (And hopefully this will answer some questions posed to me.)
1) I came through the clouds 4 weeks ago to find a very green country. The latitude is the same as Ohio so I didn’t expect that spring had begun. The woman behind me in the plane was returning for a visit and speaking English to the passenger at her side. She exclaimed, “That is my green!” For the Irish in me having just celebrated Paddy’s day, I was taken aback.
During the last month in Albania, I have watched the olive trees come to life. Trees that have bud and blossomed. Roses and Callalillies are bursting forth. With the spring rain, the land looks greener and greener – her green.

2) I live in central Albania which is beautiful. Now for some results of communism and the years that have followed. In the last month, I have had my impressions further understood with classes. For now my impressions. I live in a communist era building – concrete walls so thick… This building have been upgraded. I think each person owns – so mine is on the plush-side. The lady I live with is a widow who owns a gas station up the hill from the village. Most of the volunteers stay with more affluent members of the community. That is because they meet the PC standards..
People in Albania are constructing everywhere - they put their lek into personal businesses and homes. They do not trust banks or any markets, after the collapse in 1997. Businesses are often on the first floor – and then they build up. Their family and then other families are on each floor – or a Peace Corps Volunteer! Yards are really small farms. Chickens, vineyards, vegetables and plants. Larger ones include sheep, a cow and donkey. Construction companies are everywhere!... Though, I am not sure of their construction abilities!! The houses are imitations of those they have seen in Italy and Greece. Almost every family has members who live in those countries.
The downside is trash. It is everywhere. From their background, they think that the government should do this. (of course, we pay for that locally) So trash is everywhere. It really distracts from the beauty. The lake in the center of this village has restaurants dumping trash and water from whatever sources flowing into it. Could be beautiful! But who would eat the fish caught there. And I worry about the children who jumped in on their way home from school. I try to remember that it was Lady Bird Johnson who alerted us to our destruction of the earth. For me, not so long ago. April 1970 (Mam’s 73rd Birthday!) Earth Day began. Quicker than you think, life does/can change,. We began that change. The Albanians want to be like us. That would be a good example. And we are seeing cities and mayors trying. While most volunteers in Albania want to help with this. Our priorities have to be their priories.

3) Religion: I stated that 70% are Muslim, 20 %Orthodox and 10% Catholics. Not the complete story. Those stats are from some unknown source. We arrived Easter weekend. No one on staff knew what we were talking about when we asked about churches. The Importance was unknown to them. I will speak from my personal experience. My “host mom” (later on that story, since she is a widow younger than I), Says that she is Muslin. TRADITION!! She has served pork. And I have never seen any experience of muslin life. In the village, there is a newer mosque that my Peace Corps Trainers have seen no one attend. Occasionally there is a call to prayer. We note. I have seen a few women I am fearful to say their ages, because all look at least 10 years older – they may be my age….in black clothes with a white scarf.
More personally, when talking to my language teachers and others on the training staff, the stories are interesting. Orriela is engaged/married (later story) to a Catholic – or maybe an orthodox – and she is muslim. “No matter, I don’t care what religion my children are”. Another teacher, Irvin, during college converted from Muslim to Catholic or Orthodox (intermixed). Last week I did see 3 women in burka – the first in a month.
What I do know is that in the north the country is Catholic, from the Italians. In the south it is more orthodox, from the Greeks.


I hope to share more in the coming days. Very interesting country

Margaret