St. Anthony

The Feast of St. Anthony is June 13th. For the thirteen Tuesdays before the feast people from all over Albania come up the mountain to the very old Church. Most people make the pilgrimage walking up the mountain.  When they arrive they light candles all over the rocks. I should note that people come to pray with their rosaries - or the prayer beads. It is really an equal opportunity for people of all faiths to praise God.
I chose to go up to the Church on a minibus. I am so very glad that I did that. I was told that you can walk up in about 45 min. to an hour.  While the walk would have been nice, I enjoyed the experience without sore feet.
This sign in the town points the way for the pilgrimage.  This Church(kjsha) is outside Laç (the ç is like ch). Shna is the word for Saint. Ndout is Anthony.

Mass is said in this open air courtyard. They have a marvelous sound system. So when I arrived I could hear the Mass. People were all gathered around. Many people were fervently in prayer while others were talking and moving.

My reaction was that this must have been what it was like when Jesus spoke to the crowds - but without the sound system!!!

At the time of the consecration, most people knelt...

As you look through the crowd you will see women in traditional dress, jeans for the younger and everything in between. Mostly, though, people in their 'best'.

The statue of St. Anthony was continually surrounded by people touching and holding their children up to him.

SEE PART 2

Wine Making

I went up the hill to see how my neighrbor is making wine. I am clueless on the process she uses. She is sitting and sorting the grapes. Some of the grapes will be used for wine and some will make Raki. Raki is a pure alchohol. It is clear, like vodka. A common product in Albania. The first time I had a little, I wasn't feeling so good the next day! Now, occasionally, just a little.....

In the front, is the blue machine. It has a crank that will press the grapes in the first process. It will then be placed in large jars. After a week or so, there will be grape juice. But beware. I was given some juice and wasn't careful. It exploded ALL over my kitchen. I guess it was fermenting. I sent time getting rid of my 'red' kitchen.....
Note that there is also a pile of discards that will return to the yard. Always recycling and reusing.

Here is a picture of my co-worker in front of the jar about to become wine. On the ground you can also see corn that is being dried to become cornmeal. This is be bread during the winter.

I am sitting with Tomi. So much work, and she does not drink wine.

Fall in Fushe-Arrez

During the last weeks we celebrated Bajrmit - the end of Ramadan. They celebrate for 3 days, but offices, schools and businesses were closed the first day of the celebration. It was the first time that I realized which shops are owned by Muslims and which are Catholic. I went over to Puke which has a mosque and even more places were closed for the celebration.

And this is a long weekend in Albania. Monday is Mother Teresa Day. Her feast on the Church calendar is in early September when she died. The Albanians are celebrating when she was beatified. I am sure that she is also the only Nobel Laureate. And I find it even more interesting that they are honoring a woman. The culture is very male dominated. Yesterday I went over to the school library where a number of children - mostly girls - gave presentations on Mother Teresa. They had written poems, and gave dramatizations about her life. They also quoted from here words. VERY NICE

All of this religious celebration in the only country that was declared atheist!

Fushe-Arrez first week

How Many events can happen in a week?

Hello to All,

Hope your summer is relaxing. Mine is ‘different’. I think nothing is really happening – then realize that all is really happening. I just forget that change is now such a part of my life. I have been in Fushe-Arrez for a week. I have not spoken to a native English speaker. Oh, my. For a talker….well, I will learn.

Some thoughts on the crazy last week.

Still looking for another place…..originally nothing to cook with, stove for heating to come in fall…..broken fridge is in another room…..water continually runs(when on)…Now have stove….My counterpart is looking for another place for me.

But then, let me give the American perspective.

Water: 5-7 am, 12-2 pm, 7-9 pm - Hot is turned on and I can feel it – but doesn’t come out. There is a shower head – but only a drain by the toilet???? Learned to wash my hair with a liter of cold water! Over the kitchen sink or the bathroom drain. In a room with too much body odor, remembered Mam’s statement of always being clean, with a small bowl of water. I have soaked dusty feet and cleaned with the small bowl. Last night enjoyed the cold water after a 95 – aka 35 – degree day. Enjoy your shower and tub… and constant water!!!

Women have LOTS of questions. You are alone and here in another country. Women grab teens who are learning English. The Albanians ask questions we would never consider…age, how much money do you make??? Forget the fact that I have left children behind…..and am not married.

People are incredible. The shop owner wanted me to have a soft drink with her. The woman at the bread shop gave me the pita type bread! When I went to buy an chocolate ice cream. YO! Women I have met have given me so many items and are more than willing to help with anything. But still have their place. Oh, PC has a role for me….Is Fushe-Arrez ready? For a woman who left family to come to their village. How do your children feel??

Lots of time to walk. Not what is done in Albania. WHY? I have yet to find many places that are not uphill. But what do find on my walks. There are a number of people in traditional clothes. I have not taken any pictures, trying to honor them. I think now that some will be more open. One was walking down my street with a couple piglets. Today she was walking with her cow. Yesterday, I thought someone had a small dog. Oh, how wrongly American. It was a new piglet and she had a slick to show it where to go>>> , the pigs outside my window are so
clean. Forget the old concepts. And they are taught to be picky eaters…..animals after myself.

Went to the council meeting – 10:00 am. There are 13 members on the council from 12 partie all men >> You can’t even imagine the loud voices. First was the strategic plan which is part of my being in Fushe-Arrez. That was relatively pleasant. Then giving aid to the families in need- unemployed (about 25%) I could pretty much understand this argument…. the yelling. Then another subject, that I couldn’t quite figure…language!?!More Yelling?!? The mayor, after much time said, would you like to leave(not in English, but can understand….YES.) I went into my office across the hall and said to the women ….”need grua….all borre”. They laughed. Quickly I said the PC is non-political. They continued to laugh and know that I meant no harm.

Bank> If they want to join tourism. LOTS to know. Couldn’t use ATM since last Thursday and even with account numbers cannot get money. I have had to borrow from counterpart. Tomorrow, I am off to a larger village. REMEMBER they have only had ATM’s for 2 years, they have only tried democracy for 18 years.

Last, went to mass Sunday afternoon. Church simply lovely in the setting. Oh, the choir would sound FABULOUS. What acoustics! So amazing. Sounded like all voices were present. Not knowing the language…I only knew the responses……. I finally appreciated Latin…I will send pictures later did not want to interrupt. MY thoughts…too traditional – 10 male servers entered with the priest. Four different types of servers…acolytes, I could figure. The readers were two teenage girls and one of the servers who spoke frequently. TRADITION…… I looked around and saw many women in traditional clothing. WHO AM I TO SAY????? Held hands or raised hands at the Our Father. Kiss of Peace….all exchanged greetings and even with the crazy foreigner. (servers in some order went to the priest and gave the traditional double kiss on each cheek) Then the boys greeted those nearby. All who went to communion received on their tongue. Since that last happened when I was a teen and realizing the Peace Corps desire to look at the culture – YO – I went to the priest and took the host in my hand. After mass people were talking, kissing the two statues. The German sister was SO upset. She had to walk outside to talk to me and was apologizing to the wrong person…..Sounded like Victory…..To me a celebration of community. On the way home “talked” to neighbors.

Hope this wasn’t too long. Impressions just keep growing.

LOVE TO ALL
miss you
Margaret

Berat Castle

Belesh