Wine Making

I went up the hill to see how my neighrbor is making wine. I am clueless on the process she uses. She is sitting and sorting the grapes. Some of the grapes will be used for wine and some will make Raki. Raki is a pure alchohol. It is clear, like vodka. A common product in Albania. The first time I had a little, I wasn't feeling so good the next day! Now, occasionally, just a little.....

In the front, is the blue machine. It has a crank that will press the grapes in the first process. It will then be placed in large jars. After a week or so, there will be grape juice. But beware. I was given some juice and wasn't careful. It exploded ALL over my kitchen. I guess it was fermenting. I sent time getting rid of my 'red' kitchen.....
Note that there is also a pile of discards that will return to the yard. Always recycling and reusing.

Here is a picture of my co-worker in front of the jar about to become wine. On the ground you can also see corn that is being dried to become cornmeal. This is be bread during the winter.

I am sitting with Tomi. So much work, and she does not drink wine.

Fall in Fushe-Arrez

During the last weeks we celebrated Bajrmit - the end of Ramadan. They celebrate for 3 days, but offices, schools and businesses were closed the first day of the celebration. It was the first time that I realized which shops are owned by Muslims and which are Catholic. I went over to Puke which has a mosque and even more places were closed for the celebration.

And this is a long weekend in Albania. Monday is Mother Teresa Day. Her feast on the Church calendar is in early September when she died. The Albanians are celebrating when she was beatified. I am sure that she is also the only Nobel Laureate. And I find it even more interesting that they are honoring a woman. The culture is very male dominated. Yesterday I went over to the school library where a number of children - mostly girls - gave presentations on Mother Teresa. They had written poems, and gave dramatizations about her life. They also quoted from here words. VERY NICE

All of this religious celebration in the only country that was declared atheist!

Fushe-Arrez first week

How Many events can happen in a week?

Hello to All,

Hope your summer is relaxing. Mine is ‘different’. I think nothing is really happening – then realize that all is really happening. I just forget that change is now such a part of my life. I have been in Fushe-Arrez for a week. I have not spoken to a native English speaker. Oh, my. For a talker….well, I will learn.

Some thoughts on the crazy last week.

Still looking for another place…..originally nothing to cook with, stove for heating to come in fall…..broken fridge is in another room…..water continually runs(when on)…Now have stove….My counterpart is looking for another place for me.

But then, let me give the American perspective.

Water: 5-7 am, 12-2 pm, 7-9 pm - Hot is turned on and I can feel it – but doesn’t come out. There is a shower head – but only a drain by the toilet???? Learned to wash my hair with a liter of cold water! Over the kitchen sink or the bathroom drain. In a room with too much body odor, remembered Mam’s statement of always being clean, with a small bowl of water. I have soaked dusty feet and cleaned with the small bowl. Last night enjoyed the cold water after a 95 – aka 35 – degree day. Enjoy your shower and tub… and constant water!!!

Women have LOTS of questions. You are alone and here in another country. Women grab teens who are learning English. The Albanians ask questions we would never consider…age, how much money do you make??? Forget the fact that I have left children behind…..and am not married.

People are incredible. The shop owner wanted me to have a soft drink with her. The woman at the bread shop gave me the pita type bread! When I went to buy an chocolate ice cream. YO! Women I have met have given me so many items and are more than willing to help with anything. But still have their place. Oh, PC has a role for me….Is Fushe-Arrez ready? For a woman who left family to come to their village. How do your children feel??

Lots of time to walk. Not what is done in Albania. WHY? I have yet to find many places that are not uphill. But what do find on my walks. There are a number of people in traditional clothes. I have not taken any pictures, trying to honor them. I think now that some will be more open. One was walking down my street with a couple piglets. Today she was walking with her cow. Yesterday, I thought someone had a small dog. Oh, how wrongly American. It was a new piglet and she had a slick to show it where to go>>> , the pigs outside my window are so
clean. Forget the old concepts. And they are taught to be picky eaters…..animals after myself.

Went to the council meeting – 10:00 am. There are 13 members on the council from 12 partie all men >> You can’t even imagine the loud voices. First was the strategic plan which is part of my being in Fushe-Arrez. That was relatively pleasant. Then giving aid to the families in need- unemployed (about 25%) I could pretty much understand this argument…. the yelling. Then another subject, that I couldn’t quite figure…language!?!More Yelling?!? The mayor, after much time said, would you like to leave(not in English, but can understand….YES.) I went into my office across the hall and said to the women ….”need grua….all borre”. They laughed. Quickly I said the PC is non-political. They continued to laugh and know that I meant no harm.

Bank> If they want to join tourism. LOTS to know. Couldn’t use ATM since last Thursday and even with account numbers cannot get money. I have had to borrow from counterpart. Tomorrow, I am off to a larger village. REMEMBER they have only had ATM’s for 2 years, they have only tried democracy for 18 years.

Last, went to mass Sunday afternoon. Church simply lovely in the setting. Oh, the choir would sound FABULOUS. What acoustics! So amazing. Sounded like all voices were present. Not knowing the language…I only knew the responses……. I finally appreciated Latin…I will send pictures later did not want to interrupt. MY thoughts…too traditional – 10 male servers entered with the priest. Four different types of servers…acolytes, I could figure. The readers were two teenage girls and one of the servers who spoke frequently. TRADITION…… I looked around and saw many women in traditional clothing. WHO AM I TO SAY????? Held hands or raised hands at the Our Father. Kiss of Peace….all exchanged greetings and even with the crazy foreigner. (servers in some order went to the priest and gave the traditional double kiss on each cheek) Then the boys greeted those nearby. All who went to communion received on their tongue. Since that last happened when I was a teen and realizing the Peace Corps desire to look at the culture – YO – I went to the priest and took the host in my hand. After mass people were talking, kissing the two statues. The German sister was SO upset. She had to walk outside to talk to me and was apologizing to the wrong person…..Sounded like Victory…..To me a celebration of community. On the way home “talked” to neighbors.

Hope this wasn’t too long. Impressions just keep growing.

LOVE TO ALL
miss you
Margaret

Berat Castle

Belesh

Flat-lander in the Mountains

Since I arrived in Albania, I have seen a background of mountains. In my village there are nearby hills – and yes, some of my PCV’s live up hills. And looking out everywhere on all sides are mountains. And some of them are still covered with snow!!!

We drive a number of times a week into Elbasan. The winding road takes us through the hills. Mountains again are on either side.

I went on a visit to another PCV. The town Kucove was built on the side of a mountain. All walking was up and down. We saw some e lovely parks, the school, the bashkia (municipal building) and the youth center. In the hills of Kucove, I saw in use a mosque, orthodox and catholic church. OLV members would appreciate that the pastor is from Italy. We also stopped by a church from 1200’s, St. Nicholas was closed for the day. But I think the 4 of us might have filled the space. The surrounding cemetery had tombstones on the hill that were destroyed –many from the 20th century when communists declared the country atheistic. From this spot, we could also see the military base with old planes and an airstrip.


The next day we went to Barat. It has the beautiful pictures of hundreds of houses on the side of the hill. Again, as we walked up and down, I realized that I am a flat-lander. We went up to the castle and heard the lovely legend of the mountains on either side of the city. The legend is best told from the vantage point of the castle. Of course, it was a rainy day – better, I was told on a clear day when the details of the mountains are available. I can't believe that I walked up to the castle that has been a fortress for thousands of years.

Again, last weekend I walked up to a mountain outside of Belesh. Walking up, I am grateful for the ability to climb. Also wish that I didn't have the fear of heights - the fears are but much better than when I was young. Coming down has been the challenge. Both times, I have fallen. Balance on left foot leads to a slow and graceful fall. I will blame the rocky paths.
To their credit, Peace Corps did ask if you can walk three miles on rocky roads. They mean it.

Missing all of you and the flat lands.

Margaret